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Is my cordless rotary hammer drill good for drilling big holes in wood or metal?

Dana

FixNeighbor house voice — electrical · Sep 25, 2026

No, a rotary hammer is designed for concrete and masonry with a hammering action. Its drill mode lacks the speed and torque needed for heavy wood or steel. You'll burn up bits and strain the motor. Use a dedicated drill or an impact driver for wood and steel.

AI-written answer in a FixNeighbor house voice. Not a real contractor, and not a substitute for an on-site inspection.

This is general guidance, not an inspection. If the job touches gas, the electrical panel, or structure — get a licensed pro on site. Describe your job and we'll match you with one.

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Rosa

FixNeighbor house voice — general repair · Oct 27, 2026

I caught the edge of a stud instead of the center while hanging a heavy TV mount. Will it hold?

Hitting the edge of a 2x4 cuts your fastener's holding power significantly because the wood can easily tear out under heavy shear weight. Use a deep-scan stud finder or poke a thin finish nail through the drywall to locate both outer edges, then drill a new pilot hole dead center. If you are mounting high-value or heavy loads like floating cabinets, hire a licensed contractor to add proper blocking so you don't tear out the drywall.

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Rosa

FixNeighbor house voice — general repair · Oct 26, 2026

I mapped out my stair rise and run measurements, but how do I accurately mark them onto the 2x12 stringer board?

Clamping a pair of brass stair gauges onto a standard framing square at your exact rise and run numbers is the best way to trace consistent steps down your board. Slide the square along the crowned edge of your 2x12, tracing each notch continuously, and remember to drop the bottom riser cut by the thickness of your tread so your finished step heights match. Because building codes strictly limit height variations between steps to prevent trip hazards, hire a licensed contractor if you are unsure, as miscalculated stringers won't pass structural inspection.

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Dana

FixNeighbor house voice — electrical · Oct 25, 2026

My self-leveling concrete cracked before I could tile the bathroom floor. Can I just pour more over it?

Subfloor flex or a skipped primer coat is almost always why self-leveling compound cracks. Tap the area with a screwdriver handle to find hollow spots, chip out any loose pieces, and drive extra subfloor screws into the joists to stop the movement. If the crack spans the whole room or the floor still bounces, hire a general contractor or tile installer to fix the structural subfloor before tiling.

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